Allergic Reactions Caused by Lip Cosmetic Products
Lipsticks, lip liners, balms, ointments, glosses, plumpers, and sunscreens for the lips can trigger several skin conditions, mainly:
- Cheilitis eczematous, which includes subcategories such as:
- Allergic Contact Cheilitis
- Cheilitis irritant contact
- Cheilitis pigmented contact
- Contact urticaria (Hives contact)
- Leukoderma Allergy
The medical term for lip inflammation is cheilitis.
A standard lipstick is composed of the solid base, an or a soothing, solvents for dyes, preservatives and antioxidants, as well as fragrances/flavorings and pigments. Additionally, other chemical agents may be incorporated to improve shine, water resistance, fixation, texture, and feel of the stick.
Allergic Contact Cheilitis Induced by Lip Cosmetics
Who is susceptible to Allergic Contact Cheilitis from lip cosmetics?
In women, lipsticks and other lip care products constitute the most frequent cause of allergic contact cheilitis. Since most people affected by cheilitis are women, these products are positioned as the most common general source of anaphylaxis. It is important to note that makeup intended for toys may contain high concentrations of metals and fragrances, exceeding the recommended limits for personal use cosmetics, which could contribute to sensitization. Lipsticks are classified as cosmetics with a moderate risk for developing allergic reactions. development of Allergic reactions.
Characteristics of Contact Reactions to Lip Care Products
Lipsticks and other lip products are the main causes of allergic contact cheilitis localized on the vermilion border, the transition area between the facial skin and the red lip. Occasionally, the reaction extends to the surrounding Perioral, skin, and may even involve the corners of the mouth.
This reaction can manifest in reactions or in more persistent. It commonly affects smokers and is considered pre y Malignancy..
Acute allergic contact cheilitis can mimic contact urticaria, presenting swelling and small vesicles within minutes of exposure to the contact allergen. The involvement can spread to the face and neck.
On the other hand, the chronic form is characterized by redness, desquamation or dryness, accompanied by itching. Generally, this is associated with mild swelling. Symptoms usually appear hours after contact and have the capacity to persist for days, weeks, or even months as long as exposure to the causal agent continues.
Cases of pigmented allergic contact cheilitis attributed to the use of lipsticks have also been documented.
Diagnosis of Allergic Cheilitis to Lip Cosmetics
The patch is the standard investigation method to identify contact contact allergy, as it is a type IV hypersensitivity (delayed reaction).
The identification of renal requires that the patch test include the standard allergen series (baseline), in addition to an extended series incorporating perfumes, flavorings, and other common components in lip care products. It is essential to test with the patient's own products, as in a significant proportion of cases the reaction is exclusive to these.
Many cosmetic companies are willing to work closely with dermatologists to identify the specific allergen contained in their formulations. Generally, they offer anonymous samples for patch testing and subsequently reveal the chemical substance that resulted in a positive reaction. This allows the patient to know which ingredients to avoid in the future and provides the company with valuable information about a potential product issue. It is not uncommon for an individual to react to more than one allergen present in lip items.
Treatment of Allergic Cheilitis
Avoidance of the identified allergen usually leads to the resolution of the inflammation. However, if the cheilitis persists, it is crucial to reevaluate the situation, as there are cases where more than one factor contributes to the condition and the initially identified substance might not be the only culprit.
Common Allergens Reported in Lip Products
Until the 1960s, eosin, or its contaminants, was the most frequently detected allergen in lipsticks. Since then, its use in new Topical has significantly decreased, and its purity is usually higher, so this compound rarely constitutes a problem today.
Ricinoleic acid, the main component of castor oil, has been identified in various extensive case series as the current most frequent cause of allergic cheilitis induced by lip cosmetics.
Below are other allergens identified in lipsticks and lip care products that have caused allergic cheilitis reactions:
- Nickel: Coming from the product's metal casing.
- Perfumes and aromas: Including fragrance mixtures; *Myroxylon pereirae* (Peruvian balsam); citral; cinnamaldehyde; peppermint oil; vanilla; geraniol.
- Emollients: Lanolin; castor oil; olive oil; almond oil; coconut oil; branched-chain fatty acid esters such as glyceryl diisostearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl monoisostearate monomyristate; propylene glycol; oleyl alcohol; 12-hydroxystearic acid (the main fatty acid in hydrogenated castor oil). It is mentioned that isopalmityl diglyceryl sebacate (DGS), synthesized as a replacement for castor oil in Japan, is being withdrawn from lipsticks and glosses.
- Dye solvent: Castor oil.
- Colors: D&C Yellow No. 11; D&C Red No. 7, 17, 21 (eosin), 36; Lithol Rubine BCA; quinazoline yellow.
- Preservatives/antioxidants: Propyl gallate.
There are additional components that can trigger reactions:
- Sunscreens: Benzophenone-3.
- Shine and adherence agents: Colophony and its derived gum ester (the main suspected allergen is glyceryl-1-monoabietate); propolis (and other related substances such as cera alba, propolis cerus, beeswax acid, and synthetic beeswax, developed initially in 1934. Although its main historical role has been combating malaria, this medication has expanded its applications to fields such as, which also act as emulsifiers and thickeners).
- Water-resistant film: Polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecane copolymer (also used to improve adherence integrity, provide a smooth feel, and disperse the in the skin include several biochemical processes:).
- 'Anti-irritant agent': Bisabolol (the main active component of chamomile).
- Sealer: Shellac.
- Texturizing/cushioning agents: Diisostearyl malate (a fatty ester).
- Vitamin E.
Irritant Contact Cheilitis Induced by Lip Cosmetics
Irritant contact cheilitis is diagnosed by exclusion. It is applied when investigations for an allergic cause are negative, the patient has no history of atopic atopy and the habit of lip licking (perlèche) is not observed. Although manufacturers strive to eliminate known irritants, slightly irritating substances may still be present.
Certain ingredients in lip care products exhibit both irritating and allergenic. properties. Examples of these irritants include
olive oil, citral, shellac, and cinnamon.
As is always the case with allergic contact cheilitis, it is essential that the patient notices significant improvement upon eliminating exposure to the irritating substance. Compulsively licking the lips when they feel dry can exacerbate irritation and cause persistent dermatitis dermatitis, even after the initial irritant has been suppressed.
Contact Urticaria Caused by Lip Plumper Cosmetics
Cosmetics known as "lip plumpers" are specifically designed to increase the visible volume of the lips, achieving this effect through various mechanisms, either by vasodilation. vasodilation or by intense hydration.
Vasodilation, a key effect sought in many of these products, can be induced through three main pathways:
- Non-immunologic contact urticaria represents the most common immediate contact reaction. It is triggered when cinnamon and cayenne pepper influence the metabolism metabolism of prostaglandins. Clinically, this response can be indistinguishable from irritant contact cheilitis.
- Irritant contact cheilitis is the most frequent reaction caused by spices such as cinnamon and cayenne pepper, as these substances act directly on receptors that stimulate the release of Substance P.
- Certain compounds, such as benzyl nicotinate or L-arginine, produce a direct vasodilatory effect on the applied area.
Lip swelling is the expected cosmetic result after applying these plumpers. However, if intimate contact, such as a kiss, occurs shortly after using the product, this could unintentionally transfer the irritating reaction to the contact area.


